02
Jan
11

Day 32: This Little Piggy Went to the Market, pt.3

Non-Market #1: Lunch
We kill some time by eating lunch at a local favorite restaurant and try the delicious spicy chicken soup that we were hearing is so delicious and spicy. We spend a few hours of decadence back at our fancy, resort-like hotel (thank you, off season!) drinking a few beers on the upper patio, watching the sand duneyness of the sand dunes, reading novels, writing in our journals.  Spoiled.

Non-Market #2: Apakh Hoja Tomb
A few miles outside of the city is a tomb compound for some seventeenth century rulers of Kashgar. Gorgeous, vivid ceramic tiles abound. The most interesting tomb, for both aesthetic and comedic reasons, belongs to Yiparhan, whose name translates to “Fragrant Maid.” The tomb, dubbed “The Fragrant Concubine Tomb” (or, as the sign actually reads, ‘The Fregrant Comcubine Tomb,’) describes the history: “. . . in fact Fragranf Concub-ine is a true lady in history who was called fragrant maid, Apakh Hojia’ sgreat grandneice for her exceptional bodily aroma since her childhood.” So, I guess “exceptional bodily aroma” is something they celebrated back then.

apakh hoja mazar

Vivid and Decaying.  Love it.

apakh hoja

Decay and Doors.  Love it.

Fragrant  Concubine Tomb

Looooove it.

apakh hoja

Moody Columns

apakh hoja

Tile Palette

abakh khoja tomb

Tile Perspective

apakh hoja

Domes and Crescents

apakh hoja tomb

Haunted Tomb

Market #3: Occurring at Night
Smoke from sidewalk barbecues wafts away to reveal backlit tables crowded with locals eating dinner along the streets. The chicken kabobs are delicious; the lamb kabobs, not so much. We find some frozen yogurt that doesn’t suck entirely.

kashgar night market

Like a capture from a Hitchcock movie.

night market

Dinner Table

outside id kah

Id Kah Square

Outside the Id Kah mosque square sit Cinderella princess carriages, souvenir booths, and sharply dressed camels. When we walk by, the men are surely disappointed that we do not want to take pictures. After all, we are their target audience. Actually, I do want to take pictures, but this is one of those times when the self-righteous, experienced world traveler inside me drowns out the inner child shouting “Look! CAMELS!!!!” and so I refuse to fill that tourist stereotype.

tourist trap

I really want to climb up on that sophisticated camel and get a picture, but we have plans to see more camels soon enough.  So I shall wait.

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4 Responses to “Day 32: This Little Piggy Went to the Market, pt.3”


  1. January 5, 2011 at 6:33 am

    Oh, where to begin?? ‘Fragrant Maid’ known for ‘exceptional bodily aroma’? Hmmm. I think that is known as having an AMAZING marketing agent! 🙂

    The tilework is quite incredible. Must have been spectacular in person.

    The two b&w shots are really cool…like film noir cool.

    So there are camels. Just out in the square. Just standing there for the sole purpose of photo taking? And they make a living at that?? Incredible.

    Until next time…

    • March 16, 2011 at 7:40 pm

      i agree – someone must have had the gift of gab to sell that “fragrant maid” line.
      the tile was really awesome.
      as for the camels – i suppose they could use the camels for…carrying things, or something, during the day, and then set up at night for photos? who knows.
      thanks tracy!

  2. January 16, 2011 at 5:54 am

    I love the rich colors in those tiles and tiled entryways. And spicy soup sounds good too.


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